Gardening Calendar
January
Don’t toss that tree…Christmas trees can be recycled in a variety of ways. Boughs can be removed to cover perennials such as Christmas Rose. The entire tree can be placed in the yard near a feeder and “decorated” with suet, or strands of peanuts, berries or seeds. If you have a body of water on your property, the tree can be immersed to provide cover for small fry. Finally, many communities offer mulching services for retired greenery.
Begin collecting gardening ideas from seed catalogs magazines and other sources. Research plants suited to new or existing sites in your garden.
Winter is a great time to get your hand tools in shape, particularly if you have a warm place to work. Take an inventory of the tools you have and organize them in a fashion that suits your needs. Most garden tools can be hung to minimize the space they require. Clean and sharpen the edges of shovels, spades, hoes, edgers, trimmers, pruners, axes and saws. A light coat of WD-40 or other household oil will deter rust.
Always water houseplants with lukewarm water. Water that is extremely warm or cool will shock roots and interfere with water or nutrient absorption
Avoid the spring rush. It is not too early to have your lawnmower, garden trimmer, leaf blower, chainsaw or other motorized tools serviced. You should clean under the deck of your lawnmower, and the tines of your tiller. Keep both free of stringy debris that may wrap around turning shafts. Periodically apply a light coat of all purpose lubricant such as WD-40 to reduce friction and deter rust.
Small fruits such as bramble fruits and grapes may be pruned anytime after Christmas. Study a good pruning manual to determine precisely how to prune your plants. Remember that fruit are born on old canes so be sure to leave sufficient old wood for a good crop this year, and sufficient new wood for a good crop next year.
This year when planning your gardens, consider planting with a theme. Thematic plantings add another dimension to your gardens beyond the visual. For example, a fragrant garden with plants such as roses, nicotiana, and summer tropicals like jasmine and gardenia pleases the nose as well as the eyes. There are many types of thematic gardens—sun loving, shade-tolerant, succulent xeriscape, herb, quiet woodland, traditional English cottage, silver-blue foliage, etc. Or, create your own theme around a color, season, time of day, significant holiday or family event or hobby. See http://ahners.com/Theme_Gardens.html for more on specialty gardens.
Consider a truce…rodents and deer that are fed grain or pet food may choose to not eat the bark of fruit trees. Corn, milo, alfalfa, wheat and rabbit food may satisfy deer, mice, rabbits and squirrels. Keep in mind that this practice may unintentionally attract additional wildlife whose cooperation will also have to be bought…
Routinely monitor summer bulbs that are in storage. Keep them dry but do not allow them to desiccate. Discard immediately any bulb that exhibit signs of rotting—softness, mold, foul odor, etc.
Are you susceptible to the winter blues or just enjoy cooking with herbs? Consider a window sill herb garden. Several savory herbs lend themselves to winter herb gardens. Thyme (English kitchen thyme), Sage (‘Berggarten’), Rosemary (‘Arp’), Chives, Bay Laurel, Italian Oregano (Sicilian), Taragon and scented Geraniums are all excellent choices. Generally, all herbs prefer bright light and to be kept just a little on the dry side. Unfortunately, the popular mints and basils do not make good window garden plants and attempts to use them will likely end in frustration.
February
Before bulbs and perennials begin to emerge, perform a final raking to remove leaves and dead stems. Thick leaves will deter or slow emergence of new growth and deter rotting. Waiting too long to rake will increase the risk of damaging emergent stems.
Begin planning your spring garden—create a suitable design and estimate time
And cost of implementation
Fruit trees can be pruned any time, but because flower buds are formed in the Fall, it is a good idea to wait until late winter to prune. Apple and pear trees should get top priority as peaches and nectarines are best pruned just prior to blooming. Study a good pruning manual and decide on the pruning system or shape that you wish to work toward. Always cut limbs on a diagonal just above a node. Avoid cutting too near a main branch to avoid bark damage.
Enjoy early blooming spring bulbs—Crocus, Eranthus, Galanthus, Anemone, Scilla and others.
Plant pansies, dianthus, snapdragons, dusty miller, petunias, primulas and other cold tolerant annuals.
Have a soil test performed to determine the pH, nutrient status and organic matter content of your soil. Amend your soil as needed to adjust pH to the desired level. Liming maybe done in the spring and should be repeated every three or four years. A general guideline for application is 5 to 15 pounds per hundred square feet. Pelletized lime is easiest to apply, although in soil that is being worked with a tiller the powdered form is more evenly mixed.
Now is a good time to repair or replace patio furniture and furnishings. Tables, chairs, and lighting should all be checked to ensure that they are usable for spring and summer entertaining and relaxing!
If you enjoy starting some of your garden plants from seed, now is the time to begin getting your supplies together. Of course, seeds, containers and soil are essential. Always start with a sterile growing medium to avoid disease The two biggest problems encountered by those germinating seeds in late winter are insufficient light and damping off. Keep your seedlings in a south facing window and turn them daily to prevent lodging (falling over due to weak stems). Better yet, supplement daylight with a grow-light. Be sure to use a bulb specifically designed for plants to provide the proper wavelengths of light. Too little light causes seedlings to be leggy—spindly and lanky with no stem strength. Damping off is caused by fungal pathogens that attack the seedling at the roots and soil line. Most of the time damping off can be avoided by allowing soil to dry slightly between waterings. Generally, it is not a good idea to seal new seedlings in a moisture chamber because the damp still air is a haven for fungi.
If you have seed from prior years, you can test its germinability by selecting a few seeds (at least 10) and placing them on a damp paper towel in a plastic bag. If after 10 days less than 70% have sprouted, consider buying new seed.
You may wish to install a cold frame or other bedding device late fall and early spring growing. Seedlings and cold crops can both be grown in cold frames. Hot beds, cloches and floating row covers may be employed to extend the growing season.
Dormant oil spray is a good method of insect control on trees and shrubs. The spray works by clogging the pores in an insects exoskeleton thus preventing the insect from breathing. The only pitfall is that the spray can burn leaves and tender foliage if applied when it is too warm or sunny. Spray when winds are calm and temperatures are between 50 and 70 degrees, when rainfall is not imminent and preferably when there is a little cloud cover.
March
As the ground thaws, prepare to amend soil as needed. To improve the workability of heavy clay soils, add gypsum (magnesium sulphate) at a rate of 30 to 50 pounds per thousand square feet. Addition of sand and organic matter into the soil will also improve workability and drainage. Compost, leaf litter and peat moss, are all excellent sources of organic matter. Work soil deeply; to a depth of at least 10 inches. For annuals, shallower tillage is satisfactory, for perennials, trees and shrubs, 18 to 24 inches (or more) is preferable.
Finish pruning trees, shrubs and rose bushes by the end of the month. Do not prune flowering shrubs until after spring flowers have faded.
Plant spring bulbs when ground is workable.
Plant potatoes and cold crops—cabbage, celery, broccoli, Brussel’s sprouts, kale, peas and cauliflower. Seeds may also be sown for spring crops of the green leafies and root crops—spinach, lettuce, collards, turnips, beets, carrots and radish. Snap peas can be sown now. Provide support for plants to encourage upright growth. Upright plants are more attractive and stronger that sprawling plants. Pods are also easier to pick from upright plants.
Begin applying fertilizer to houseplants at the normal rate and frequency. With longer and warmer days, they will begin to show signs of vigor.
Aerate and dethatching your lawn now will improve the germination of new seed and the effectiveness of fertilizer, herbicides and pesticides applied later. The chemicals will make better contact with the soil and be absorbed more readily, thereby reducing the risk of runoff. Dethatching also enhances the spread of grass tillers while decreasing the hospitality of the soil environment for insects and disease organisms.
Apply lawn fertilizer. Bluegrass, fescue, rye and other cool season grasses need a balanced fertilizer with the major elements, nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and Potassium (K). Warm season grasses will respond better to a slow release fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, applied when green blades first appear.
Apply pre-emergent herbicides for broadleaf and grassy weed control. Crabgrass preventer should be applied when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees.
Sow new grass seed this spring. If you have applied or intend to apply herbicides or fungicides, separate the sowing of seed from the pesticide application by a week or more to minimize interference with root establishment. When purchasing seed, remember that a seed blend is a combination of two or more types of the same grass while a mixture is a combination to two or more species of grass (Fescue and Bluegrass, for example). The benefit of blends and mixes is that if conditions become unfavorable for one member of the combination, the other one may perform better and prevent a complete brown-out.
Good seed germination requires good contact with the soil (aided by dethatching and aerating) and continual seed hydration. If conditions are dry, frequent watering may be required for a few minutes each day for the first two to four weeks month. This is the only time that a lawn should be watered in frequent, short periods.
Begin monitoring the newly emergent leaves of perennials such as peonies and roses for symptoms of disease. Remove and destroy an infected material. Infected material on the ground may be a source of future infections and will attract pests such as sowbugs and slugs. Continue monitoring throughout the spring and summer.
If you buy or receive an Easter lily this spring, keep in mind that most of them will naturalize in a garden. After it has finished blooming, plant it in a sunny site with well drained soil. Keep in mind the size and color of the flowers when you pick a site to ensure that it complements other plants in the area.
Think Fall! As you plan your garden, make sure you include some selections that will look good in fall in winter. Evergreen shrubs such as holly, boxwood and Oregon grape are great for their year-round color. Holly and Oregon grape have berries as a bonus. Plants with interesting stems are also good choices to add character to a yard or garden in fall and winter. Red twig dogwood and twisted filbert are two common choices but there are many others so do some research to find the plants that suit you. Several succulents are also very attractive in fall and winter. Several varieties of Sedum turn shades of pink or red when the cool weather comes. Some grasses produce plumes of seeds that add interest. Visit the Botanical Garden to see some other examples of plants in a typical setting to help visualize your own garden.
April
Plant annuals—don’t forget the spikes, asparagus fern and vinca vine accents.
When you plant your annuals, add Osmocote or a similar slow release fertilizer tothe soil to avoid having to apply fertilizer regularly during the summer.
Fertilize established perennial beds with a balanced fertilizer (not too much nitrogen). Organic fertilizers are especially good in late spring and summer as they are less likely to burn plants. Organic fertilizers also add micronutrients that may be lacking in commercial fertilizers. Fertilize roses and other perennials regularly all summer long, but don’t fertilize after mid-August. Late summer feeding encourages tender growth that is susceptible to freezing.
Preventative insecticide sprays can be applied to fruit trees to protect immature fruit from infestation by insect larvae. Follow label guidelines and stick to a schedule to ensure efficient control. It is best to spray on a calm morning when rain is not forecast for several days.
Avoid fertilizing newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials with chemical fertilizers. Stressed roots and leaves will not respond well to fertilizers. Organic, or slow release fertilizers minimize the chance of fertilizer burn.
Time is running out to divide perennials, but be aware that root disturbance may curtail or prevent spring or summer blooms. Plants should not be divided after leaves or flower buds appear. Prune shrubs back to about 6 inches from the ground and dig up the plant with a root ball that extends beyond the plant perimeter by at least one third the diameter of the plant. Use a sharp knife or saw to cut the plant into sections. Replant sections as soon as possible to minimize loss of moisture.
Be sure to water those hanging baskets and container gardens—they dry faster than in-ground plants.
Begin applying Bobbex or other deer/rodent repellents to reduce loss of plants to wildlife.
Watch the weather forecast for cold weather and respond appropriately. Bring tropicals inside, cover
any plants that are at risk. In extreme low temperatures (less than 20 degrees) even hardy plants such as cold crop seedlings and bulb flowers will be damaged by cold.
Well hydrated plants will tolerate extreme cold better than will water stressed plants. The exception is succulents. The natural “anti-freeze” compounds in hardy cacti an other succulents must be allowed to concentrate in the plant tissue. This process occurs when excess water is lost through evaporation.
To provide frost protection to tender foliage in late spring or early fall, use a watering timer to sprinkle the plants for a few minutes ever one to three hours. The ice that develops on leaves and flowers will provide protection down to temperatures of about 27 degrees.
To minimize damage caused by frost formation on leaves and flowers, sprinkle leaves and flowers with water an hour or so before the frost melts.
Look for signs of snail and slug damage, such as holes in the leaves of Hostas and other plants in damp areas of the garden. Apply diatomaceous earth or other slug repellants if needed.
Aphids, Japanese beetles, cucumber beetles and other insects will begin to appear soon on flowers and vegetables. Be on guard and apply insecticides, if desired, to minimize any infestation. Fertilome insecticide granules are effective against many insect pests.
Remove suckers and watersprouts from trees and shrubs when they are noticeable.
If you know children with an interest in plants, gardens or the outdoors (and most do), nurture their curiosity by including them in your gardening. Let them plant seeds and tend plants of their own. Not only will this foster learning, but it teaches important habits such as patience and responsibility. Choose fast germinating seeds with a large seedling so that results will be seen quickly enough to maintain their interest. Showy flowers, edible fruit or plants that attract wildlife make good candidates because they provide an aspect to maintain interest beyond planting and seedling emergence. Sunflowers, beans, four o’ clocks, morning glories, pumpkins, zinnias and snapdragons might all interest children in a different way. Gardening helps children grow.
Try planting mossed baskets this spring. These containers are unique in their appearance and are commonly seen in outdoor public spaces like Six Flags, the Zoo, Grants Farm and office parks. See the article at www.ahners.com for details on creating mossed baskets.
May
Mulch new plantings to retain moisture, add organic matter and improve the appearance of the lawn. Organic mulches such as bark, leaves and compost are superior to inorganic mulches such as rock. Organic mulches improve workability of the soil by improving drainage, increasing water holding capacity, improving the cation exchange capacity (availability of fertilzer), minimizing root zone temperature and moisture fluctuations and hosting beneficial insects that improve soil aeration. Rock mulches are only appropriate for xeriscapes or specialty gardens where aesthetics require rock.
Mow you lawn to a proper height to reduce stress and ensure the best performance year-round. In general, it is best to cut grass a little taller as the weather heats up and the soil dries. Keep in mind that just as warm season grasses turn brown and go dormant in winter, cool season grasses turn brown and go dormant in summer.
Prune “candles” on conifers to encourage fuller and more compact trees. Prune azaleas and other spring flowering shrubs soon after they bloom to give a tidy look to the garden. Pruning also encourages denser growth and more flowering stems the following year.
As we head into the drier summer weather, monitor your plants watering needs.
And remember, periodic soakings are more effective and healthy than repeated shallow watering. Deep watering encourages deep root growth. Deep roots are protected from temperature extremes.
Mulch flower beds, trees and shrubs. Mulching reduces weed growth, adds organic matter to the soil, helps the soil retain moisture, shields roots from extremes in temperature and gives the garden a tidy, manicured appearance.
Fertilize annuals regularly with a multipurpose plant food, such as Bloom Plus.
Visit the Missouri Botanical Garden to see holiday displays. But don't forget to visit the Kemper Center for Home Gardening to see specific plants at this time of year. Seeing the plants in a flower bed greatly helps in deciding what plants and varieties to select for your own home.
By mid-May, nutrient efficiencies may be evident. Yellow leaves often are a signof nitrogen deficiency. If nitrogen has been applied, the yellow color may be the result of magnesium (apply Magnesium Sulfate) or iron deficiency (apply Shultze’s Liquid Iron). Oak trees in particular are prone to iron deficiency. Reddish leaves may indicate a general lack of phosphorous (Apply Hi-Yield Superphosphate).
Do not fertilize or over-water onions or herbs. The flavors will be more robust when they grow slowly as in poor or dry soil. Most herbs are very vigorous and need not be encouraged with fertilizer.
Watch roses for signs or symptoms of black spot and powdery mildew. To minimize the risk of infection, prevent foliage from being watered and always water in the morning so nearby surfaces are dry by evening. Always remove infected foliage and dispose of it. Protective fungicide sprays can be applied to prevent or minimize an epidemic.
It still is not too late to plant summer bulbs for mid and late summer blooms. Begonias, caladiums, calla lilies, cannas, dahlias, elephant ears, gladiolus, frittilaria and many others will provide showy colors in a fairly short time. Consider placing bulbs adjacent to early blooming perennials that have already finished blooming for the year. Trim the perennial’s foliage back and arrange the bulbs either to hide or complement the perennial’s foliage.
Houseplants may be moved outside or repotted. Slowly acclimate them to new light conditions by placing them first in the shad then moving them gradually to their final location. Water more often, in the increased light and wind they will rapidly desiccate.
Late spring cold spells and wide temperature fluctuations may cause inconsistent production in okra and tomato crops. Night-time temperatures of at least 67 degrees will produce the most reliable crops.
Plant pumpkins by Memorial Day to have fruit ready for Fall decorating and Halloween.
Trim new growth on topiaries, yews, boxwoods, junipers and other hedges to maintain a neat appearance through the summer.
Another aspect of gardening with children is the introduction to them of important concepts—the natural cycles of the Earth and living organisms. The seasons can all be appreciated more readily if one spends time out of doors regularly. The lengthening then shortening of days, the waxing and waning of the moon, temperature changes from cold to warm then back—each is an introduction to the physical sciences. Likewise, watching plants germinate, grow, reproduce then die (or go dormant) demonstrates many concepts from the biological sciences. The growth then decomposition of organisms can be used as to illustrate important chemical and ecological concepts such as the nitrogen and carbon cycles. Above all, gardening can instill youngsters with a love for the outdoors and provide them an awareness of things they might not otherwise notice.
Stake or cage tomatoes before they get too big. Begin training them as soon as they are a 12-18” high. Remove sucker sprouts to ensure a neat habit and good fruit production.
June
Japanese beetles emerge this month. Be prepared. In small gardens, beetles may be hand picked from plants and dropped in a bucket of water. Traps offer a safe way to reduce overall activity of adult beetles but may not be sufficient for all situations. Spot applications of Sevin (Carbaryl) are effective, however, Sevin should be used sparingly as it is a nonselective insecticide and will kill beneficial as well as harmful insects. Always follow manufacturer directions when mixing and applying pesticides.
Trim yellowing leaves from bulbs that have flowered. If you wish to divide bulbs you may do so now or wait until fall. If you choose to wait, mark their location now so you can easily find them later.
Weed, weed, weed—the easiest way to keep a garden weed free is to vigilantly remove weeds prior to seed production. Regular hoeing also breaks up the soil, encourages weed seed germination, kills weed seedlings, promotes soil aeration and facilitates water penetration.
Clean strawberry beds by removing dead and excess plants. Mulch to minimize weed and insect pest problems. Weeds and overpopulation encourage gray mold.
Regularly deadhead spent blossoms—this encourages re-blooming, minimizes growth of some fungal pathogens and helps maintain a tidy appearance.
Prune spent blossoms to just above the nearest leaflet.
Although plantings can be installed all summer long, avoid planting when the temperature is over 85 degrees or during midday sun. Remember to soak new plantings and mulch them well. Avoid fertilizing newly installed plants to prevent leaf and root burn. Use Schultze Plant Starter to promote root growth and ease transplant shock. Water new plantings regularly until they are well established. For trees and shrubs, apply Wilt Pruf at the time of planting to minimize water loss through leaves during the settling in period.
Stake plants that have grown too tall to support themselves. Plants for cut flowers are especially vulnerable to stem breakage. Keeping plants upright prevents crowding of neighbors and ensures good light penetration through the canopy. Take preventative steps to keep ties from gouging the stems of perennials, trees or shrubs. Physical wounds allow entry to insects and pathogens.
Corn and beans can be replanted to provide new crops into the fall.
Pinch mums and asters through July to promote thick growth, prevent early flowering, and maintain strong stems that resist wind damage.
Now is a good time to clean up azaleas and rhododendrons by removing dead flower heads. This will make them look neater and minimize dead tissue that might foster disease or infestation. Other spring blooming shrubs can be trimmed or shaped at this time as well. Pink flowered Spireas can be encouraged to flower again if they are pruned in early summer.
As summer gets into full swing, so will pests. Continue monitoring the garden and trees for signs and symptoms of disease and infestation. Seek professional help for diagnosis and recommended remedial action. Birch trees in particular should be monitored for evidence of infestation by borers.
Harlequin bugs, cucumber beetles and squash vine borers on cucurbits can be eliminated with insecticides—be sure the specific insect pest is listed on the label and follow directions. Remember, pesticides have their place in any pest control program, but they must always be used with care and kept out of the reach of children and pets.
Vegetables need regular and consistent watering to ensure good fruit set. For example, inconsistent watering will cause tomatoes to crack and rot on the vine. Insufficient water will also cause cucumbers and melons to be bitter, turn yellow or wither on the vine. To minimize water loss from the soil and to mitigate temperature fluctuations, mulch around garden plants. At least one inch of rain or irrigation water per week is sufficient.
Once they have begun to flower and produce fruit, do not apply high nitrogen fertilizers to tomatoes and other fruit bearing vegetable crops. Nitrogen encourages plant growth at the expense of fruit production.
Buddleia (Butterfly Bush) should be blooming now. Sit back and enjoy the visits from the butterflies, moths, bees, wasps and flies. To encourage more visits from butterflies, place a shallow pan of sugar water (1 part sugar to 2 parts water) in an open space in the garden. Cover the bottom of the pan with brightly colored (red and yellow work best) plastic scouring pads. Butterflies will light on the pads and stick their proboscis (sucking mouthparts) down through the pad to the artificial nectar in the pan. Be advised that ants and other insects will find this treat, but keep in mind that these other insects are perfect food for hummingbirds and other birds too. Be sure to wash the pan and pads periodically to prevent fungal infestations.
Children love animals, particularly worms and fuzzy things. The spiders, insects, caterpillars, snails and occasional field mouse or mole encountered in the garden provide another element of interest to children. The opportunity to watch a spider build a web, or to see a mole digging a tunnel can show a child that we all have work to do. More importantly, the creatures encountered in the garden provide opportunities for a child to learn the role of many types of organisms in nature—producer, consumer, scavenger, decomposer, predator and prey. Children can understand at an early age that each has a role in nature. It is also a good time to dispel and diminish common phobias of spiders, insects, snakes or other organisms. Knowledge and understanding dispel the fear that is bred by ignorance. Never force a child to touch, hold or be near something for which he has an innate fear. Allow him gradually to see, through your actions, that his fear is misplaced.
July
Hot, dry, sunny weather is an ideal time to apply many herbicides. Apply them carefully to avoid damaging susceptible ornamentals.
Visit the Missouri Botanical Garden to see holiday displays. But don't forget to visit the Kemper Center for Home Gardening to see specific plants at this time of year. Seeing the plants in a flower bed greatly helps in deciding what plants and varieties to select for your own home.
Trim vigorous perennials to encourage fuller plants and continued blooming. Roses in particular will benefit from removal of spent blossoms.
Continue to fertilize flowers and vegetables during the summer. Be careful not to over fertilize during extreme hot or dry weather to prevent burning roots or leaves. It is a good idea to provide supplemental water if you do not receive at least an inch of rain within a couple of days of applying fertilizer. You may choose to apply fertilizer at half strength or half as frequently as normal so as to not have to water so much after application.
When the weather is hot and dry, mow less frequently to reduce stress on the grass.
Lawn chemicals, such as Diazinon, control grubs but they also kill many other key, non-pest organisms. Use these chemicals sparingly.
If you fertilize your lawn during summer be sure to provide supplemental watering if you receive less than an inch of rain a week. Water deeply and slowly to provide time for maximum absorption into the soil. Long, infrequent applications are preferable to numerous applications of short duration. Water early in the day to minimize evaporative loss and to ensure that blades are dry at night. Diseases of turf grass are exacerbated by evening watering.
Water trees and shrubs in the area from the trunk to the drip line. Water slowly and thoroughly to minimize runoff.
Plant sunflowers and zinnias now for colorful autumn blooms.
Now comes the fun part. As vegetables begin bearing, keep the mature fruit picked to encourage more production. An abundance of ripe fruit will attract poachers such as bees, flies, gnats, birds and tortoises. Arrange for a friend to pick and enjoy your produce if you leave on vacation.
Divide irises, lilies and other perennials beginning now through the middle of September.
Spider mites may appear on roses, trees shrubs and other ornamentals. Dry dusty surfaces are particularly attractive to mites. You can minimize the odds and severity of an infestation by periodically misting or spraying the foliage with water. Severe infestations should be pruned out and destroyed. Pesticides may be applied—follow directions cautiously and be aware than many pesticides will burn foliage during hot, dry weather.
Many perennials will die back to the ground after they bloom. Remove dead foliage to prevent disease, discourage slugs and maintain a tidy appearance. Common perennials with such a habit include Aquilegia (Columbine), Tradescantia (Spiderwort), Dicentra (Bleeding heart), Papaver (Oriental Poppy), Oenothera (Primrose) and others including many wildflowers.
To avoid tender growth prior to frost, do not apply fertilizer to trees, shrubs or perennials after July 15.
Pinch mums and asters through July to promote thick growth, prevent early flowering, and maintain strong stems that resist wind damage.
Make arrangements to have your grass mowed if you leave on vacation. Short cutting a tall sward exposes tender meristems to temperature and humidity extremes that cause stress and promotes disease, weed growth and water loss.
Use common sense when a child wants to “domesticate” something captured in the garden. Earthworms and sowbugs are far from endangered species. Some butterflies and frogs on the other hand are increasingly rare. If a child does wish to keep a caterpillar or tadpole, help her understand that when the transformed creature emerges, it will be exhausted and hungry and must be released immediately.
August
Late summer is a good time to freshen the yard or patio with late plantings of annuals or container gardens. Choose large containers that will hold a variety of plants with different colors and textures. Plant containers that will accent or complement other décor in the garden, deck or patio. Add soil moist to the soil to hold water and prolong periods between watering.
Begin preparing lawns for winter—apply final summer fertilizer.
If heat and drought have slowed grass growth, cease regular mowing or raise the blade height on your mower to reduce stress. The latter is preferable if you merely wish to do a cosmetic evening of the lawn height.
Sow grass seed—at least eight weeks of frost free growing conditions are needed for germination and establishment. For cool season grasses, cool nights stimulate growth and roots will continue to grow slowly through the winter. In spring, growth will be vigorous on a well established root system. When purchasing seed, remember that a seed blend is a combination of two or more types of the same grass while a mixture is a combination to two or more species of grass (Fescue and Bluegrass, for example). The benefit of blends and mixes is that if conditions become unfavorable for one member of the combination, the other one may perform better and prevent a complete brown-out.
Good seed germination requires good contact with the soil (aided by dethatching and aerating) and continual seed hydration. If conditions are dry, frequent watering may be required for a few minutes each day for the first two to four weeks month. This is the only time that a lawn should be watered in frequent, short periods.
Now is the time to set out cold crops—cabbage, celery, broccoli, Brussel’s sprouts, kale and cauliflower peas. They will not grow much in hot weather but roots will be established for vigorous growth as day and night temperatures grow cooler. Seeds may also be sown for fall crops of the green leafies and root crops—spinach, lettuce, collards, turnips, beets, carrots and radish.
Many herbs can be planted at this time including most mints, dill, caraway, fennel, and cilantro.
Damage from thrips may appear on some plants. These insect are tiny but do major damage to developing leaves and flowers. If your plants appear dusty or have misshapen leaves or flowers, or flowers that turn brown before fully opened, check for thrips. Hold a piece of white paper under the flower and tap it gently or breath on it. Small, thin insects will appear light brown against the white background. If thrips are present, spray with an appropriate insecticide, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Continue to be vigilant against weeds. Prevent seed set and dispersal by cutting weeds before they produce mature seeds.
September
Plant pansies, dianthus, snapdragons, dusty miller, petunias, primulas and other cold tolerant annuals. In a sheltered location or during a mild winter, some of these plants may survive through to spring. Survival is most likely with pansies and and primulas.
Warm season grasses will begin to go dormant and turn brown. Dethatch and aerate as needed.
Fall is for planting—install perennial beds, mums, asters and flower bulbs. A variety of accent plants are ideal for fall planting including the Fall Magic line from Euro-American Propagators. This line includes varieties of acorus, ajuga, carex, helichrysum, heuchera, lamium, lysimachia, salvia and many others. Color needn’t end with summer.
Plant spring bulbs until the ground freezes. Plan and plant wisely to produce color from February to June. Plant Crocus, Eranthus, Galanthus, Anemone, Scilla and others for February and March blooms. Plant Daffodils, Tulips, Hyacinths and others for March and April flowers. Plant Iris and Allium and others for flowers in May and June.
If you have houseplants outdoors, prepare to bring them inside. Apply a systemic insecticide to the soil and spray the foliage with an general purpose houseplant spray to reduce the risk of carrying pests indoors.
Help your houseplants wind down for the winter. Begin watering them less and reduce fertilizer applications to one half the normal strength and frequency until late winter.
Mulch perennials and trees to conserve water and minimize temperature fluctuations.
Begin pruning projects anytime through February. Always make cuts at an angle just above a stem or node. Consult a pruning manual for specific instructions.
Divide perennials. When replanting, water plants well and supplement rainfall to provide the equivalent of an inch of rain per week until the ground freezes.
New perennials such as hostas, peonies, daylilies and clematis can be planted now. Mulch them well and keep them watered until the ground freezes.
Harvest onions, garlic, pumpkins, gourds and ornamental corn when the foliage yellows or is killed by frost.
Dry herbs for use through the winter. To prevent mold, dry herbs in an area with dry air and good circulation. In an attic near a roof vent is an ideal place. Flavors may be preserved in oil or vinegar. Dried herbs also may be added to wreaths, splays and other floral arrangements.
If you have poinsettias or Christmas cactus, take advantage of naturally shortened days and cooler temperatures, both of which help trigger flowering. Place plants in an area that will receive NO artificial light between sunrise and sunset until buds appear (in Christmas cactus) or until bracts turn color (in poinsettias).
Before summer is too far out of mind, take a look at your yard and garden and decide what worked and what didn’t. Did you plant a particular cultivar of a flower or vegetable that did fantastic…or just terrible? Take notes to remember what was successful and what wasn’t. Be sure to sketch a map of what was planted in each location so that you can spot trends in problem areas and build on situations that are known to work.
You may wish to install a cold frame or other bedding device late fall and early spring growing. Seedlings and cold crops can both be grown in cold frames. Hot beds, cloches and floating row covers may be employed to extend the growing season.
October
Collect interesting or colorful seed pods, seeds, fruit or foliage for fall displays leading up to Thanksgiving. Seeds heads from grasses, rose hips, buckthorn, bittersweet, honeysuckle berries, peppers and nuts all make interesting additions to centerpieces, wreaths and other decorations. Hair spray can be used to hold seeds in place.
Select (or harvest) pumpkins, gourds, corn stalks and other decorative plants.
Pumpkins should be firm with the stem intact. Be careful to avoid temperature extremes and rough handling to ensure your pumpkin survives to Halloween and beyond.
Watch the weather forecast for cold weather and respond appropriately. Bring tropicals such as Bougainvillea, Mandavilla, orchids, bromeliads and begonias indoors, cover any plants that are at risk. In extreme low temperatures (less than 20 degrees) even hardy plants such as cold crop seedlings and bulb flowers will be damaged by cold.
Well hydrated plants will tolerate extreme cold better than will water stressed plants. The exception is succulents. The natural “anti-freeze” compounds in hardy cacti an other succulents must be allowed to concentrate in the plant tissue. This process occurs when excess water is lost through evaporation.
To provide frost protection to tender foliage in late spring or early fall, use a watering timer to sprinkle the plants for a few minutes ever one to three hours. The ice that develops on leaves and flowers will provide protection down to temperatures of about 27 degrees.
Before freezing temperatures set in for good, empty outdoor planters and overturn them to prevent freezing and cracking. Alternatively, you can replant your container by using a cheap plastic pot to hold pansies, dianthus, primrose or snapdragon. The container-within-a-container approach will protect your nice urns and pottery while extending their usefulness beyond spring and summer.
To minimize damage caused by frost formation on leaves and flowers, sprinkle leaves and flowers with water an hour or so before the frost melts.
Visit the Missouri Botanical Garden to see holiday displays. But don't forget to visit the Kemper Center for Home Gardening to see specific plants at this time of year. Seeing the plants in a flower bed greatly helps in deciding what plants and varieties to select for your own home.
Rake and remove leaves from around the house, under shrubs and within fence-rows to prevent grass die-out.
Leaves make great compost and mulch. If you can store or compost your leaves until spring, you can distribute them around plants as a mulch to prevent weeds and retain soil moisture.
It is a good idea to compost healthy, pest-free yard waste. Compost supplies many micronutrients and adds organic matter to the soil. Organic matter improves water-holding capacity, cation-exchange capacity and encourages growth of insects and microorganisms that create healthy root zones. Turn and water compost regularly to keep microbial action going throughout the pile. Add a nitrogen fertilizer at a low rate to encourage maximum microbial activity.
Harvest late root crops-turnips, beets, sweet potatoes, onions and carrots. Store in a cool, dry basement, closet or garage.
Dig, clean and store tender bulbs—anemone, elephant ear, gladiolus, caladium and calla lily. Prior to storage, bulbs may be disinfested of insect and fungal pests by soaking them for a couple of minutes in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts water. Allow bulbs to dry thoroughly before storing them away. A cool dry basement is an ideal storage location.
If you till your garden in the fall, cover it with mulch to prevent topsoil erosion in Winter.
Cover roses after the first prolonged cold spell. Do not allow roses to remain covered when temperatures exceed 60 degrees for more than three or four days. Clear rose cones can trap too much heat and prevent the rose from entering dormancy. Breathable material such as straw or leaves held close by a wire cage can minimize the risk of rotting, too much sun or heat.
Trim new growth on topiaries, yews, boxwoods, junipers and other hedges to maintain a neat appearance through the winter.
As Indian summer winds down and Autumn begins in earnest, large soil amending projects can be undertaken. Projects should be planned to take as little time as possible so that bare soil is not exposed to eroding forces through the winter. Bare spots should be mulched well to prevent erosion. Large digging projects may damage tree roots. By performing these projects in fall/winter, the damage caused by root desiccation will be minimized.
November
Protect tender perennials from hard freeze, provide mulch, or other protection. While it is still reasonably fresh in your mind, not the location and size of your perennials. Decide which ones to move, divide or eliminate. Then begin designing your gardens for next year. Remember, flower color isn’t everything. Foliage color and texture, plant height, and bloom time are all factors to consider. Design flower beds that combine plants with complementary or contrasting colors and different bloom times so that there will always be focal points of interest regardless of the time of year. With average bloom times of 3 to 5 weeks, most will need to be combined with half a dozen others to ensure flower production all season long.
Outdoor planters such as urns, can be put to good use by creating holiday displays with cut greens and dried foliage. Evergreen boughs and dried foliage, flowers, fruits or seeds can be arranged in combination with holiday decorations to add some additional outdoor color to the season.
While designing next year flower beds and planning this years holiday decorations, remember to use color to your advantage. Reds, yellows and oranges appear large and near by, while blues and purples appear small and distant. These differences in perception can help you draw attention to or away form a particular feature in your home or garden. Pinks and purples can be mixed with a variety of colors and make good transitions from one part of the spectrum to another.
Keep bird feeders and birdbaths clean and full all winter.
Until the ground freezes, keep young trees, shrubs, bulbs and perennials well watered. Roots will remain active (though in a reduced metabolic state) throughout the winter.
Once the ground freezes, mulch bulbs and perennials. Remember to remove mulch in the early spring to prevent rotting.
Now is a perfect time to prune Holly, Magnolia, Juniper, Pines, Spruces, Boxwoods and other evergreens to use the greenery for holiday decorating. Add brightly colored berries and fruits to greenery for added interest.
Christmas trees will retain needles best if they are kept in the shade until they are taken inside. Make a fresh cut at least 1 inch from the bottom of the trunk and immerse the cut in water immediately. When shopping for a tree, remember that firs keep their needles better than pines or spruces.
Ashes from fireplaces and wood stoves can be stored and applied to some plants or added in small amounts to compost. Wood ash will make the growing medium more alkaline (raise the pH) so one must take care not to overdo it. Some plants such as succulents, asters, clematis, helleborus, lilacs, lilies, roses and some bulbs will respond to a small amount applied directly to the soil in the spring. Plants requiring an acidic soil (azalea, blueberry, holly, rhododendron, etc.) should never receive ash amendments.
December
Be sure to mulch your broad-leaved evergreens (holly, boxwood, rhododendron, azalea, etc.). The leaves of these plants continue to lose water all winter and dry roots will result in leaf burn. Holly, azalea, and rhododendron in particular will thrive with a mulch of pine needles or oak leaves which make the soil more acidic (lower pH).
Place poinsettias in a bright location but to avoid fading bracts, avoid direct sun until after Christmas. Punch holes in foil to prevent standing water and soggy soil. After Christmas, provide plenty of direct sun and fertilize regularly.
Do you know a gardener for whom it is difficult to find a gift? Many accessories can make gardening more comfortable. Consider putting together a gift basket or bucket with good work gloves, some quality hand tools, hand cream (for dry skin), sun screen, flower seeds, watering can, knee pads or other similar items.
Take the time during this lull in the gardening season to consider the nonliving components of your gardens and flower beds. Do you have, want or need statuary, planters, birdbaths, ponds, pools, stones or other accents? Would you like any for Christmas? Now is a good time to consider the look and design of your garden and to plan appropriately by acquiring the necessary garden accents.
Now is a great time to take an inventory of the tools and plants that you have and make a list of those you would like to acquire or receive as a gift.
Although above-ground parts of plants are mostly dormant at this time, the roots below the frost-line are still active. Periodically water your trees and shrubs—particularly evergreens, pansies and bulbs during extended dry periods.
Spray live Christmas trees and greenery with Wilt Pruf anti-desiccant to help plants retain moisture and color.
December is a good time to buy houseplants. The vibrant greens, reds, whites and yellows of tropical foliage freshen the air and help stave off the winter blues. Place a large foliage plant such as a ficus tree, schefflera (Umbrella tree) or palm in that area where the Christmas tree once stood. To brighten dull winter evenings, decorate the tree with a strand of white lights. This provides a warm classic look that is not bound to any season. Large foliage trees can be placed on a deck or patio through the summer too and can be a pleasing focal point for summer evening entertaining. Think warm thoughts!
Do not keep houseplants on window sills with leaves touching the window pane. Frost injury can result on leaves if the glass temperature falls below freezing.
Monitor fruit trees for signs of damage caused by deer or rodents. Implement traps, repellants, deterrents or baits as needed. A dog or cat patrolling the area may be sufficient to ward off most pests.
Visit the Missouri Botanical Garden to see holiday displays. But don't forget to visit the Kemper Center for Home Gardening to see specific plants at this time of year. Seeing the plants in a flower bed greatly helps in deciding what plants and varieties to select for your own home.